Forgotten Materials｜Gothic JKT

Forgotten Materials｜Gothic JKT

On 18th-century European court coats, ornament ran along the front edges, cuffs and hem. Rich embroidery and woven patterns were a display of the wearer’s status and wealth. The Gothic JKT takes its pattern from the court coats of that era. We kept their considered structure and the placement of their ornament, then reinterpreted them in Professor.E’s own language.

The base fabric is 100% cotton, hand-dyed in uneven shades of grey. The ornament is 100% silk, also hand-dyed. The two materials sit in the same palette, yet their sheen and texture remain distinct.

Instead of embroidery, we cut the silk into various shapes and sewed each piece onto the base fabric. Black lines and beads were then stitched along their outlines. The jacket itself is machine-sewn, while every piece of fabric, every bead and every detail on its surface was sewn on entirely by hand. On the back, panels radiate outward from the collar, echoing the grandeur and order of court dress.

The whole jacket stays within a single grey palette, so its layers live in the materials, the sheen and the traces of handwork. It only reveals itself up close.

SIZE
48